Textile

Topics: Fiber, Knitting, Cellulose Pages: 25 (3905 words) Published: December 15, 2013
Weaving: interlacing yarns
Fabric Face: smoother and more lustrous; clearer and brighter print or design; more pronounced finish; floats are on the face
Fabric Back: imperfections and knots; print or design duller and less distinctive; more noticeable tentering marks Warp Yarns: parallel to the salvage; thinner; stronger; more twist; usually greater in number (in unbalances weaves); straighter and more parallel; usually filament yarns (depending on fabric content) Filling Yarns: perpendicular to the salvage; bulkier; weaker; less twist; usually fewer in number (in unbalances weaves); usually staple yarns (depending on fabric content)

Plain Weave: most common; most economical; smooth surface; ideal for printing and surface manipulation (tucking and pleating); wear well; lower tear strength; ravel less; wrinkle more; less absorbent Usage: almost anything

Twill Weave: fewer yarn interlacing  woven closely; stronger; good abrasion resistance; softer; more flexible; better wrinkle recovery; drape well; soil less and easily shed soil; wale on the face Usage: uniforms, jean, suits, coats, sportswear, dresses, skirts, work shirt/cloth, drapery, jackets, scarf, blankets, ties, blouses, linings, industrial fabrics

Satin Weave: even fewer interlacing  woven more closely  high tread count; snags; abrade; shed soil easily; higher count higher durability, good body (firm), and wind repellency; low thread count  more flexible and more wrinkle resistance

Usage: Eveningwear, lingerie, upholstery
Jacquard Weave: creating design; computerized; floral pattern; metallic yarns; designing; reverse coloring; Long floats (brocade)
Woven-Pile Weave: pile=raised /cut loops on the surface; warp ground, filling ground, and pile yarns (either extra filling or extra warp); cut cut-pile fabric (corduroy, velvet, velveteen); not cut  uncut-pile fabric (terry cloth: towels)

①Wire Method: a sharp-edge wire cuts the extra warp yarn pile yarn ② Filling-Pile Method: extra filling pile yarn forms float that are cut and brushed up after weaving; corduroy (cut regularly spaced floats form lengthwise wales)

③ Double Cloth Method: 2 sets of warp and filling yarns are woven into 2 layers of fabric that are joined by an extra set of warp yarns. A sharp knife cuts the two layers apart while still on the loom 2 cut pile cloth; velvet

Knitting: interloping yarn
Industry: ①knitted yard goods: produce fabric; ②knitted apparel: produce completed garment Knitting Machines: ① Flatbed: flat fabrics, warp and weft knits, most warp knit fabrics; ② Circular: predominantly for weft knit, tubi=ular fabric

Weft/Filling Knit: hand knit, flatbed, or circular machine; one continuous yarn Jersey Knit: single knit; economical; light to heavyweight; all-wale smooth and flat front and all-course textured back; greater stretch crosswise; low dimensional stability  curl; run or ladder; twist or skew after laundry; print on face Usage: loungwear, socks, sheets, sweaters, t-shirts, dresses, hosiery, sportswear, beachwear, robes, men’s underwear, shirts, undergarments

Rib Knit: wale and course alternate along the width (alternating columns); slower production; x/x creates same front and back  reversible; more elastic; more stretch crosswise; more dimensional stability  do not curl; run or ladder Usage: slack, upholstery, suits, shirts, dresses, skirts, underwear, blouse, collar, neckline, cuffs, bottom ledge of sweaters, cardigans, knit hats, men hosiery

Purl Knit: wale and course alternate along the length (alternating rows); front and back resemble jersey knit; slowest production often more expensive; all over stretch; low recovery low dimensional stability; less crosswise stretch; thicker than jersey knit; do not curl

Usage: infant and children’s wear, sweaters, scarves
Warp Knit: vertical loops; Raschel knit; machine only
Usage: lingerie, sleepwear, women’s blouse, uniforms, men’s shirt, upholstery, dresses, eveningwear, draperies, curtains, veiling...
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